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TRADE, MANUFACTURE, INDUSTRY

 

-- La legge veneziana sulle invenzioni: scritti di diritto industriale per il suo 500◦ anniversario. Milan: Giuffrè, 1974.

-- La manifattura serica in Toscana tra ‘700 e ‘800: il recupero dell’Archivio della Gran filanda Scoti di Pescia. Pisa: Giardini, 1990.
Conference publication.

--La conceria in Italia dal medioevo ad oggi. Milan: La Conceria, 1994.
Key collection of essays on various aspects of tanning.

--Le fabbriche magnifiche: la seta in provincia di Cuneo tra Seicento e Ottocento. Cunoe: L’arciere, 1993.
Catalogue of an exhibition held in Cuneo. It includes various essays on the cultivation of silkworms, and on merchants and manufactureres involved in the silk trade.

--La via bresciana della seta: catalogo della mostra, atti del convegno: Brescia, ottobre 1994. Brescia: Fondazione civiltà bresciana.

Adorni-Braccesi, Simonetta. 1991. ‘Le ‘Nazioni’ lucchesi nell’Europa della Riforma’. In Critica Storica 28, pp.363-426.

Allerston, Patricia. 1999. ‘The Second-Hand Clothes Trade in Sixteenth- and Seventeenth-Century Venice’. In Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society, 33, pp. 46-56.

Allerston, Patricia. 1996. The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c.1500-1650. Unpublished thesis, Istituto Universitario Europeo di Firenze.

Archer, I. 1991. The History of the Haberdashers’ Company. Chichester, Phillimore.

Aspin, C. 2003. The Water Spinners: a New Look at the Early Cotton Trade. Helmshore, Helmshore Local History Society.

Aymard, Maurice. 1965. ‘Commerce et production de la soie sicilienne aux XVIe-XVIIe siècles’. In Mélanges d’archéologie et d’histoire de l’Ecole Française de Rome, 77, pp.609-640.

Barbieri, Gino. 1940. ‘L’industria tessile a Legnago nei secoli XVI e XVII’. In Barbieri, Gino. Note e documenti di storia economica italiana per l’età medioevale e moderna. Milan: Giuffrè Editore, pp. 55-101.

Barzaghi, A. and Doretta Davanzo Poli, eds. 1990. Le vie della seta in Italia. Treviso.
Exhibition catalogue.

Basini, Luigi. 1974. Sul mercato di Modena tra Cinque e Seicento. Prezzi e salari. Milan: Giuffrè Editore.

Basini, Luigi. 1973. ‘Tra contado e città: lanieri e setaioli a Modena nei secoli XVI e XVII’. In Rivista di Storia dell’Agricoltura, 13, pp.3-42.

Battistini, Francesco. 1992, ‘La diffusione della gelsibachicoltura nell’Italia centrosettentrionale: un tentativo di ricostruzione’. In Società e Storia, 56, pp. 393-400.

Battistini, Francesco. 1993. ‘L’industria della seta in Garfagnana’. In Atti del convegno: la Garfagnana. Storia, cultura, arte. Modena: Aedes Muratoriana, pp. 223-229.

Battistini, Francesco. 1993. ‘Sericoltura e innovazione in Valdinievole’. In Atti del convegno: pluriattività e mercati in Valdinievole (XVI-XIX secolo). Buggiano: Comune di Buggiano, pp. 59-65.

Battistini, Francesco. 1995. ‘Le principali tappe della diffusione del torcitoio circolare per seta nell’Italia del centro-nord (sec.XIV-XVIII)’. In Società e Storia 69, pp. 631-640.

Battistini, Francesco. 1988. ‘Un esempio di protoindustria: le prime fasi della produzione di seta nelle campagne lucchesi del Settecento’. In Società e Storia, 41, pp. 535-558.

Battistini, Francesco. 1997. ‘Origini e fortuna di un’innovazione: la ‘bacinella alla piemontese’ per la trattura della seta (sec. XV-XVIII)’. In Nuova rivista storica, 81, I, pp. 19-100.

Battistini, Francesco. 1998. Gelsi, bozzoli e caldaie: l’industria della seta in Toscana tra città, borghi e campagne (sec. XVI-XVIII). Florence: Leo S. Olschki.
This book describes the growth and development of the silk industry in Tuscany. Battistini examines Medici efforts to foster and support the silk industry, the legislation that governed it from the sixteenth to the eighteenth century, and goes into detailed analysis of methods of cultivation of silk worms and the production of raw silk.

Bayard, Françoise. 1971. ‘Les Bonvisi, marchands banquiers à Lyon, 1575-1629’. In Annales E.S.C. 26, pp.1234-1269.

Belfanti, Carlo Marco. 1988. ‘Dalla città alla campagna: industrie tessili a Mantova tra carestie ed epidemie (1550-1630). In Critica Storica, 25, pp. 429-456.

Belfanti, Carlo Marco.1995. ‘Le calze a maglia: moda e innovazione alle origini dell’industria della maglieria (secoli XVI-XVIII)’. In Società e Storia 69, pp. 481-501.

Belfanti, C. M. 1996. ‘Fashion and innovation: the origins of the Italian hosiery industry in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries’, Textile History, 27(2), 132-147.

The production technology of ‘stockings in the English style’ spread throughout Italy in the later seventeenth century. The article considers knitted manufacture in Italy, from its sixteenth-century beginnings with hand-knitted items, through to the adoption in some Italian cities of the knitting frame invented in England at the end of the sixteenth century, and finally discusses the case of Padua where the use of the knitting frame was opposed.

Belfanti, Carlo Marco. 2005. Calze e maglie: moda e innovazione nell’industria italiana della maglieria dal Rinascimento a oggi. Mantua: Tre Lune.

Belli, W. 1981. ‘La lavorazione della seta a Rovereto nel ‘500 e all’inizio del ‘600. In Materiali di lavoro, 13.

Bensi, Paolo. 1983. ‘Tintura dei tessuti serici nei secoli XV e XVI. Nota storica e tecnica’. In Tessuti serici italiani, 1450-1530, ed. by Chiara Buss. Milan: Electa, pp. 40-47.

Bensi, Paolo. 1986. ‘La tintura dei tessuti in Liguria nel XVIII secolo: note storiche e tecniche’. In I tessili antichi e il loro uso: testimonianze sui centri di produzione in Italia, lessici, ricerca documentaria e metodologica. Atti del III Convegno C.I.S.S.T. Milan: Il Centro.

Berengo, Marino. 1965.  Nobili e mercanti nella Lucca del Cinquecento. Turin: Einaudi.

Berger, R. M. 1993. The Most Necessary Luxuries: the Mercers’ Company of Coventry, 1550-1680. University Park, Pennsylvania State University Press.

Berveglieri, Roberto. 1982. ‘Cosimo Scatini e il nero di Venezia’. In Quaderni storici, 52, n.1, pp. 167-179.
A Florentine dyer who immigrated to Venice.

Berveglieri, Roberto. 1985. ‘Tecnologia idraulica olandese in Italia nel secolo XVII: Cornelius Janszoon Meijer a Venezia (gennaio-aprile 1675)’. In Studi veneziani, X, pp.81-97.

Betta, G. 1984. ‘“Il so alla caldera trar la seda et anco far delli ormesini”: un filatoio a Nogaredo nel XVII secolo’. In Materiali di lavoro, 1-2, pp. 47-142.

Bettarini, M.T. and R. Ciapetti. 1982. ‘L’arte della seta a Firenze: un censimento del 1663’. In Ricerche storiche, 12.

Bettey, J. H. 1982. ‘Production of alum and copperas in southern England’, Textile History, 13(1), 91-98.

Alum was an important mordant in the dyeing of wool and cloth and was used by tanners, illuminators and painters, while copperas was used as a mordant, and as a black dye, as well as in the manufacture of ink. Both became increasingly important during the late 16th and early 17th centuries in England because of increased production of colored cloth.

Bianchi, M.L. 2000. ‘Le botteghe fiorentine nel catasto del 1480’. In Ricerche storiche, n.1, pp. 119-170.

Biggs, N. 2004. ‘A tale untangled: measuring the fineness of yarn’, Textile History, 35, 120-129.

The commercial value of a quantity of yarn depends on two things, the length and the fineness. This article describes how practical methods of measuring these quantities led to systems of units that were noteworthy mainly for their profusion and complexity. The story covers the period from 1600 to the present day, and examples from the woollen, linen, and cotton trades are given. Progress towards standardization, both nationally and internationally, was slow. Even when opportunities for simplification arose, the trades were reluctant to abandon their customary measures in favour of ones that would have been simpler to use and understand.

Binaghi, Mariateresa. 1994. ‘I ricamatori milanesi tra Rinascimento e Barocco’. In Paolo Venturoli, ed. I tessili nell’età di Carlo Bascapè vescovo di Novara (1593-1615). Novara: Interlinea, pp.97-123.
Binaghi includes a run-down of recent studies on Milanese embroidery in the 16th and 17th c. as well as a discussion of the guild to which the embroiders belonged.

Boccia, L.G. and E.T. Coelho. 1967. L’arte della armatura in Italia. Milan: Bramante.

Boccherini, T. and P.Marabelli, eds. 1993. “Sopra ogni sorte di drapperia...”. Tipologie decorative e tecniche tessili nella produzione fiorentina del Cinquecento e del Seicento. Florence.
Exhibition catalogue.

Bolles, M.P. 1944. ‘Old Venetian Brocades’. In BMMA, 5, III, pp.41-47.

Bonazzoli, Viviana. 1987. ‘Ebrei italiani, portoghesi, levantini sulla piazza commerciale di Ancona intorno alla metà del Cinquecento.’ In Gaetano Cozzi, ed., Gli ebrei e Venezia: secoli XIV-XVIII. Milan: Edizioni Comunità, pp. 727-770.

Bonazzoli, Viviana. 1990. ‘Mercanti lucchesi ad Ancona nel Cinquecento’. In Rita Mazzei and Tommaso Fanfani, eds. Lucca e l’Europa degli affari. Lucca: Pacini Fazzi, pp. 75-107.

Bonito Fanelli, Rosalia. 1980. ‘I drappi d’oro: economia e moda a Firenze nel Cinquecento’. In Le arti del principato mediceo. Florence: SPES.
This essay examines Medici involvement in the production and consumption of high-quality silks. The first part focuses on manufacture and trade, while the second part looks at fashions at court and particularly at female dress and the preferences of successive Medici Duchesses and Grand Duchesses.

Bonito Fanelli, Rosalia. 1981. Five Centuries of Italian textiles: 1300-1800. Florence.
Focusses on designs in both woven textiles and embroideries.

Born, Wolfgang. 1938. ‘Scarlet’. In Ciba Review 7, pp. 206-221.

Bosisio, Achille. 1962. ‘L’industria tessile della Serenissima. L’arte della seta’. In Giornale Economico della Camera di Commercio, Industria e Agricoltura di Venezia, pp.565-569.

Bottin, J. and N. Pellegrin, eds. 1996. Échanges et cultures textiles dans l’Europe pré-industrielle, Lille: Université Charles-de-Gaulle.
This volume includes essays on the sale of second-hand clothing in Venice in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; the textile consumption of an aristocratic family in Florence at the end of the seventeenth, beginning of the eighteenth century; the manufacture of ‘levantine’ hats for foreign markets in Prato and Orléans in the eighteenth century; and the circulation of textiles in Tuscany in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

Bowden, P. J. 2006. The Wool Trade in Tudor and Stuart England. London, Routledge.

Originally published: London, Cass, 1962.

Bratchel, M. E. 1978. ‘Italian merchant organization and business relationships in Early Tudor London’, Journal of European Economic History, 7(1).

Bracco, Giuseppe, ed. Torino sul filo della seta. Turin: Collana blu.
This volume contains a series of essays on the silk industry in Piedmont from the fifteenth to the nineteenth century.

Brenni, Luigi. 1925. La tessitura serica attraverso i secoli. Cenni sulle sue origini e il suo sviluppo in Como, nelle altre città italiane ed in alcuni stati europei. Como: Premiatia tipografia editrice Ostinelli di Cesare Nani.

Brenni, Luigi. 1927. I velluti di seta italiani, Milan: Archeotipografica.

Broggi, Tito. 1958. Storia del setificio comasco, II. La tecnica, parte prima. Dalle origini alla fine del Settecento. Como: Centro lariano per gli studi economici.

Broglio d’Ajano, Romolo. 1959. ‘L’industria della seta a Venezia’. In Storia dell’economia italiana, ed.by Carlo M. Cipolla, vol.I, pp.209-262. Turin: Einaudi.

Brown, D. 2000. ‘‘Persons of infamous character’ or ‘an honest, industrious and useful description of people’? The textile pedlars of Alstonfield and the role of peddling in industrialization’, Textile History, 31(1), 1-26.

Covers the period from the later eighteenth century onwards.

Brown, Judith C. and Goodman, Jordan. 1980. ‘Women and Industry in Florence’. In Journal of Economic History, 40, pp.73-80.

Brumhead, D. 2002. ‘New mills in Bowden Middlecale: domestic textiles in the rural economy before the Industrial Revolution and the change to factory cotton’, Textile History, 33(2), 195-218.

The place and character of domestic textiles in the farming economy of the Derbyshire district known as Bowden Middlecale, England, in the 17th and 18th centuries are examined. Focusing in particular on four hamlets within this district, the writer assesses the extent to which the domestic textile industry was a basis for the introduction of new workshops and factories for cotton--an entirely new fabric to the region--at the end of the 18th century. He subsequently contrasts the New Mills area with other textile regions that were also undergoing changes, especially the Pennine Lancashire fringe, in order to highlight the particular circumstances of the New Mills area and therefore emphasize the regional variety of the cotton industry in its early development. He shows that in New Mills and adjacent hamlets, the particular nature of the rural industry in the ‘long’ 18th century made the region appropriately prepared for the age of cotton, with evidence indicating a direct path from domestic industry, through workshops, to factory industry.

Brunello, Franco. 1968. L’arte della tintura nella storia dell’umanità. Vicenza: N. Pozza.

Brunello, Franco. 1977. Concia e tintura delle pelli nel Veneto dal XIII al XVI secolo. Vicenza: N. Pozza.

Brunello, Franco. 1970. ‘Le materie coloranti nei più antichi statuti dei tintori’. In Laniera, LXXXIV, 4.

Brunello, Franco. 1981. Arti e mestieri a Venezia nel Medioevo e nel Rinascimento. Vicenza: N. Pozza.

Brunello, Franco. 1991. Storia del cuoio e dell’arte conciaria. Vicenza: N. Pozza.
Includes the ‘Plichto de larthe de Tentori, che insegna tenger panni tele bambasi et sede sia per larthe maggiore come per la comune’, by G. Rosetti, first published in Venice in 1540.

Buck, A. 1991. ‘Buying clothes in Bedfordshire: customers and tradesmen, 1700-1800’, Textile History, 22(2), 211-237.

Includes many extracts from inventories and accounts, and an appendix transcribing a probate inventory of 1720.

Buckland, K. 1997. ‘Monmouth caps in America’, Ars Textrina, XXVII, 5-14.

Considers the evidence for the export of the knitted caps to the New England colonies in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

Bulferetti Luigi and Claudio Costantini. 1966. Industria e commercio in Liguria nell’età del Risorgimento (1700-1861). Milan: Banca commerciale italiana.

Bunt, Cyril. 1959. Venetian Fabrics. Leigh-on-Sea: F. Lewis.

Buseghin, Maria Luciana, Vittorio Fagone, Tullio Seppili and Bruno Toscano, eds. 1992. Artigianato in Umbria. La tessitura e il ricamo. Perugia.

Caferro, W. 1996. ‘The Silk Business of Tommaso Spinelli, Fifteenth-century Florentine Merchant and Papal Banker’. In Renaissance Studies, 10, 4, pp. 417-439.

Caizzi, Bruno. 1957. Storia del setificio comasco, I. L’economia. Como: Centro lariano per gli studi economici.

Calabi, Donatella and Paolo Morachiello. 1987. Rialto: le fabbriche e il ponte, 1514-1591. Turin: Einaudi.

Campbell, M. 2002-3. ‘Textile cargoes from the East: 1670-1740’, Text, 30, 29-34.

Note on the information available in the East India Company archives.

Canestrini, Giuseppe. 1857. ‘L’arte della seta portata in Francia dagli italiani’. In Archivio Storico Italiano, 6, part 2, pp. 5-24.

Cantelli, Giuseppe, ed. 2000. Magnificenza nell’arte tessile della Sicilia centro-meridionale: ricami, sete e broccati delle Diocesi di Caltanissetta e Piazza Armerina. Catania: G. Maimone.
Exhibition catalogue.

Capalbo, Cinzia. 2004. Seta e moda: dalla filiera della seta alla produzione tessile. Rubbetttino Editore.
Examines silk production and manufacture in Calabria.

Caple, C. 1991. ‘The detection and definition of an industry: the English Medieval and Post-Medieval pin industry’, Archaeological Journal, 148, 241-255.

Considers the written history of pins and pin manufacture as well as the typological evidence and their metal composition.

Carano-Donvito, G. 1938. ‘Per una storia dei tessili nell’antica economia calabrese’. In Archivio Storico per la Calabria e la Lucania, 8, pp. 73-82.

Caridi, Giuseppe. 1995. La spada, la seta, la croce. I Ruffolo di Calabria dal XIII al XIX secolo. Turin: Società editrice internazionale.

Carreras, G. 1966. ‘L’industria serica a Fossombrone’. In Quaderni storici delle Marche, 1, pp. 126-150.

Carta Mantiglia, Gerolama and Antonio Tavera. 1992. La seta in Sardegna. Nuoro: Istituto superiore regionale etnografico.

Cassandro, Michele. 1979. Le fiere di Lione e gli uomini d’affari italiani nel Cinquecento. Florence.

Castronovo, G. 1935. Controversia fra guantai. L’origine dell’industria del guanto a Napoli. Rome.

Cataldi Gallo, Marzia. 1988. ‘I tessuti’. In Quaderni della Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola, 11, Genoa.

Cataldi Gallo, Marzia. 1996. ‘Tissus français à Génes’. In Bulletin du CIETA, n.73, pp. 85-94.
This article discusses the import of French textiles to Genoa between 1650 and 1725.

Cataldi Gallo, Marzia. 1994. Tessuti genovesi del Seicento: nuove prospettive di ricerca. Genoa: Tormena Editore.

Cavaciocchi, Simonetta, ed. 1993. La seta in Europa sec. XIII-XX. Prato: Istituto Internazionale di Storia Economica F.Datini.
This large volume gathers together contributions on the manufacture and trade of silks as well as their association with power and luxury. The volume includes essays on Italian trade, manufacture and design, with contributions on subjects ranging from silk workers in Italy, to the cultivation of silk worms in Tuscany, Italian silk workers in Germany, and the pomegranate motif in Italian Renaissance silks.

Ceriani, V. and C. Della Pietà. 1984. Dal baco alla seta. Tecniche, applicazioni e prospettive della bachicoltura. Milan: Ottaviano.

Cessi, R. And A. Alberti. 1934. Rialto: l’isola, il ponte, il mercato. Bologna: Zanichelli.

Chapman, S. 1972. ‘The genesis of the British hosiery industry 1600-1750’, Textile History, 3.

Chapman, S. 1973. ‘Industrial capital before the Industrial Revolution: an analysis of the assets of a thousand textile entrepreneurs c.1730-1750’. In: N. B. Harte and K. G. Ponting. eds. Textile History and Economic History: Essays in Honour of Miss Julia de Lacy Mann, Manchester, Manchester University Press.

Chapman, S. 1992. ‘Vanners in the English silk industry’, Textile History, 23(1), 71-86.

Discusses the role of the Vanners family, who were of Huguenot extraction, in the English silk industry from the eighteenth to the twentieth century.

Chapman, S. 1993. ‘The innovating entrepreneurs in the British ready-made clothing industry’, Textile History, 24(2), 5-25.

Explores the evidence for the ready-made clothing industry in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Chapman, S. 2002. Hosiery and Knitwear: Four Centuries of Small-Scale Industry in Britain, c.1589-2000. Oxford, Oxford University Press.

Chiappini di Sorio, Ileana. 1989. L’arte della tessitura serica a Venezia. Venice: Centro Internazionale della Grafica.

Chicco, Giuseppe. 1995. La seta in Piemonte 1650-1800. Un sistema industriale d’ancién regime. Milan: F. Angeli.

Chicco, Giuseppe. 1992. ‘L’industria della seta’. In V. Castronovo, ed. Storia illustrata di Torino. Milan, pp. 801-820.

Chicco, Giuseppe. 1992. ‘L’innovazione tecnologica nella lavorazione della seta in Piemonte a metà Seicento’. In Studi storici, 33, I, pp. 195-215.

Chicco, Giuseppe. 1995. La seta in Piemonte, 1650-1800. Milan: Angeli.

Chierici, Patrizia. 1982. ‘Una città della seta: industrializzazione e trasformazioni urbane in Racconigi tra Sei e Settecento’. In Storia Urbana 20, pp. 4-45.

Chierici, Patrizia. 1983. ‘La protoindustria piemontese: i complessi per la lavorazione della seta’. In C. De Seta, ed. Archeologia industriale. Milan, pp. 22-30.

Chrisman, K. 2002. ‘Paisley before the shawl: the Scottish silk gauze industry’, Textile History, 33, 162-176.

Considers the silk gauze manufacture in Paisley in the eighteenth century.

Cipolla, Carlo Maria. 1987. Banchieri e mercanti di Siena. Rome: De Luca.

Ciriacono, Salvatore. 1988. ‘Mass Consumption Goods and Luxury Goods: The De-Industrialization of the Republic of Venice from the Sixteenth to the Eighteenth Century’. In Herman Van der Wee, ed. The Rise and Decline of Urban Industries in Italy and in the Low Countries. Louvain: Louvain University Press, pp.41-61.

Ciriacono, Salvatore. 1981. ‘Silk Manufacturing in France and Italy in the XVIIth Century: Two Models Compared’. In Journal of European Economic History 10, pp. 167-199.

Ciriacono, Salvatore. 1978. ‘Per una storia dell’industria di lusso in Francia. La concorrenza italiana nei secoli XVI e XVII’. In Rivista di storia sociale e religiosa, 14, pp. 181-202.

Cirillo Mastrocinque, Adelaide. 1980. ‘Rapporti tra Napoli spagnola e Firenze medicea. La moda e le sue industrie’. In Napoli nel Cinquecento e la Toscana dei Medici. Naples: Edizioni scientifiche italiane, pp. 195-224.

Clementi, A. 1979. L’arte della lana in una città del Regno di Napoli (secoli XIV-XVI). L’Aquila.

Cobelli, Ruggero. 1872. Cenni storici e statistici sulla bachicoltura nel Trentino. Rovereto.

Coleman, D. C. 1969. ‘An innovation and its diffusion: the ‘new draperies’’, Economic History Review, XXII(3), 417-429.

In the second half of the sixteenth century a range of mixed-fibre, lightweight, cheap textiles were developed and were known to contemporaries as ‘new draperies’.

Comba, Rinaldo. 1992. ‘Dal velluto all’organzino: produzioni seriche nel Piemonte rinascimentale’. In Torino sul filo della seta, ed. by G. Bracco, pp. 11-38. Turin.

Consitt, F. 1933. The Weavers’ Company. Oxford, Clarendon Press.

Cooke, A. 2009. ‘The Scottish cotton masters, 1780-1914’, Textile History, 40(1), 29-50.

The Glasgow ‘Tobacco Lords’ were the subject of a classic study, but there has been no overall survey of their successors, the Scottish cotton masters. This article draws on a rich and surprisingly underused source, the wills and probate inventories of Scottish cotton merchants and manufacturers, to give a fuller picture of a group, which played a key role in Scotland’s early industrialisation. It also casts light on the early decline of the cotton industry in Scotland by demonstrating how, as profits declined, the cotton masters, who had always had diverse business interests, began to move into more lucrative areas of investment, such as coal mining, iron manufacturing, railways, shipping and overseas trade.

Corner, D. 1991. ‘The tyranny of fashion: the case of the felt-hatting trade in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries’, Textile History, 22(2), 153-178.

Cox, N. 2000. The Complete Tradesman: a Study of Retailing 1550-1820. Aldershot, Ashgate.

Does not contain a section specifically on clothing or textiles, but many useful references can be found by using the ‘traded goods’ section of the index.

Cozzi, Gaetano. 1953. ‘Vita avventurosa di un setaiolo eretico’. In Archivio storico lombardo. 80, pp. 244-251.

Crippa, Flavio. 1990. ‘Il torcitoio circolare da seta: evoluzione, macchine superstiti, restauri’. In Quaderni storici, 73, pp. 169-212.

Crippa, Flavio. 1998. ‘Dalla fabbrica al Museo: la tecnologia serica’. In P. Chierici, ed. La fabbrica come laboratorio. Turin: Celid, pp.47-58.

Croft, P. 1987. ‘The rise of the English stocking export trade’, Textile History, 18.

Curatola, Giovanni and Maria Teresa Rubin de Cervin, eds. 1990. Le vie della seta a Venezia. Rome: Leonardo – DeLuca.

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Dagnall, H. 1996. ‘The excise marking of growing duty on printed textiles’, Textile History, 27(1), 115-118.

From the ‘Notes and Queries’ section of the journal.

Dagnall, H. 1996. The Marking of Textiles for Excise and Customs Duty. The Historical Background and Legislative Framework. Edgware, Middlesex, H Dagnall.

Includes discussion of eighteenth-century British textiles. Illustratations of excise stamps may assist dress historians and curators in interpreting stamps and marks on fabrics.

Dal Borgo, M. 1986. ‘Due marchi di fabbriche tessili privilegiate nella repubblica di Venezia (XVIII secolo)’. In Ateneo Veneto, vol. 24, pp. 151-161. Venice.

Dal Borgo, M. 1996. ‘Note archivistiche sulle tipologie seriche prodotte in Friuli tra ‘600 e ‘700’. In Da Re, M., A. Ros, F. Vecchies, eds. La seta a Sacile e l’attività serica nel suo distretto. Sacile, pp. 81-99.

Dal Pane, Luigi. 1971. Industria e commercio nel granducato di Toscana nell’età del Risorgimento. Bologna: Pàtron.

Damiolini, Miriam and Beatrice Del Bo. 1994. ‘Turco Balbani e soci: interessi serici lucchesi a Milano’. In Studi storici, 35, pp. 977-1002.

Dapor, Gaspare R. 1988. ‘I fabbricanti serici di Rovereto: appunti per una storia di archeologia industriale’. In Rovereto magia della seta. Rovereto: Manfrini Editore.

D’Arco, Carlo.1857. Delle arti e degli artefici di Mantova. 2 vols. Mantua.

D’Arco, Carlo. 1868. Sulle industrie seriche in Mantova. Mantua.

Davanzo Poli, Doretta ed. 2004. The Arts and Crafts of Fashion in Venice from the 13th to the 18th century. Beijing: National Museum of China.
This is a catalogue for an exhibition that originally took place in 1988 at the Museo Correr in Venice under the title ‘I mestieri della moda a Venezia’. The exhibition was then taken to Berlin, New York, London and Beijing. The text is in Chinese and English and includes essays on the manufacturers of shoes, clothing textiles and accessories in Venice, on the Venetian guilds, and on the geographical location of the various trades. The catalogue section is in colour and includes a broad range of artefacts from shoes, fans and other accessories to paintings and tools.

Davanzo Poli, Doretta and Stefania Moronato. 1994. Le stoffe dei veneziani. Venice: Albrizzi Editore.

Davies, M. P. and Saunders, A. S. 2004. The History of the Merchant Taylors’ Company. Leeds, Maney.

De Francesco, Grete. 1940. ‘Venetian Silks’. In Ciba Review, 29, pp. 1018-1053.

de Marly, D. 1978. ‘Fashionable suppliers 1660-1700: leading tailors and clothing tradesmen of the Restoration period’, Antiquaries Journal, 58, 333-351.

Degl’Innocenti, Daniela. 2002. ‘Le produzioni seriche fiorentine: tipologie e iconografia’. In Riccardo Spinelli, ed. La grande storia dell’artigianato: Il Seicento e Settecento, vol. V. Florence: Giunti, pp. 189-205.

Del Bianco Cottrozzi, Maddalena. 1981. ‘Ebrei e industria della seta nel Gradiscano attraverso gli atti del magistrato e del consesso commerciale’. In Quaderni Giuliani di storia, 2, pp. 41-71.

Della Valentina, M. 1999. ‘Da artigiani a mercanti: carriere e conflitti nell’Arte della Seta a Venezia tra ‘600 e ‘700’. In A. Guenzi, P. Massa and A. Moioli, ed. Corporazioni e gruppi professionali nell’Italia moderna. Milan: Angeli.

Delort, R. 1965. ‘Un aspect du commerce vénitien au XV siècle: Andrea Barbarigo et le commerce des fourrures (1430-1440)’. In Le Moyen Âge, n.71, pp. 29-79.

De Maddalena, Aldo. 1974. Prezzi e mercedi a Milano dal 1701 al 1860. Milan: Banca Commerciale Italiana.

De Maddalena, Aldo. 1962. ‘L’industria tessile a Mantova nel ‘500 e all’inizio del ‘600. Primi indagini’. In Studi in onore di Amintore Fanfani, vol. IV. Milan: Giuffrè Editore.

De Maddalena, Aldo. 1982. ‘Tra seta, oro e argento a Milano a mezzo il Cinquecento’. In Aldo De Maddalena, Dalla città al borgo. Avvio di una metamorfosi economica e sociale nella Lombardia spagnola, Milan: F. Angeli, pp. 46-64.

De’Marinis, Fabrizio. 1994. Velvet: History, Tecnique, Fashions. Milan: Idea Books.

Demo, Edoardo. 2001. L’ “anima della città”. L’industria tessile a Verona e Vicenza (1400-1550). Milan: Unicopli.

De Roover, Raymond. 1941. ‘A Florentine Firm of Cloth Manufacturers: Management and Organization of a Sixteenth-century Business’. In Speculum, XVI, pp.11-18.

Devoti, Donata, ed. 1990. La seta. Tesori di un’antica arte lucchese. Produzione tessile a Lucca dal XIII al XVII secolo. Lucca: M. Pacini Fazzi.

Di Bella, S. 1976. ‘Fonti e problemi per la storia della seta in Calabria’. In Economia e storia (Sicilia-Calabria XV-XIX secolo). Cosenza: Pellegrini Editore, pp. 259-294.

Di Savinio, P. 1989. ‘Protezionismo veneziano e manifattura e commercio dei tessuti serici a Vicenza nel XVIII secolo’. In Studi Veneziani, 17.

Dispensa, T. 1990-1991. ‘I problemi della produzione e del commercio della seta in Sicilia e la Scuola pilota dell’Albergo dei poveri di Palermo alla fine del Settecento’. In Atti dell’Accademia di Scienze, Lettere ed Arti di Palermo, 5, XI.

Dobson, R. B. and Smith, D. M. eds. 2006. The Merchant Taylors of York: a History of the Craft and Company from the Fourteenth to the Twentieth Century. York, Borthwick Publications.

Edler, F. 1936. ‘Winchcombe kersies in Antwerp (1538-44)’, Economic History Review, VII, 57-62.

Edler De Roover, F. 1954. ‘The Silk Trade of Lucca’. In Bulletin of the Meedrie Bobbin Club, n.38, pp. 28-48.

Edler De Roover, F. 1966. ‘Andrea Bianchi, florentine silk manufacturer and merchant in the fifteenth century’. In Studies in Medieval and Renaissance History, III, pp. 224-285.

Edwards, C. D. 1996. ‘Floorcloth and linoleum: aspects of the history of oil-coated materials for floors’, Textile History, 27(2), 148-171.

Covers the period from the late sixteenth century to the twentieth century.

Egan, G. 1989. ‘Leaden seals for textiles - some archaeological evidence relating to fabrics and trade’, Costume, 23, 39-53.

Leaden seals were used as part of a system of quality control in the textile industry in England and elsewhere from at least the fourteenth to the eighteenth century. This paper examines new evidence provided by English seals, concentrating mainly on the textiles themselves, and also considers some seals of a different character which relate to other aspects of the cloth trade.

Egan, G. 1994. Lead Cloth Seals and Related Items in the British Museum. London, Department of Medieval and Later Antiquities, British Museum.

The catalogue covers 350 lead cloth seals, both English and European, with related items. The seals were lost mainly in London between the fourteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Endrei, W. 1974. ‘English kersey in Eastern Europe’, Textile History, V(91-99), 91.

Endrei, W. and Egan, G. 1982. ‘The sealing of cloth in Europe, with special reference to the English evidence’, Textile History, 13, 47-75.

Endrei, W. 1987. ‘Rouet italien et métier de Flandre à tisser au large’. In Tecnica e società nell’Italia dei secoli XII-XVI. Pistoia, pp. 71-81.

Ericani, Giulia. 1982. ‘Il ruolo dell’artista-artigiano nella produzione artistica ‘minore’ fra Sette e Ottocento: mercato, tecnica e stili’. In Giuliana Mazzi, ed. Giuseppe Jappelli e il suo tempo. Padova: Liviana, pp. 759-775.

Ericani, Giulia and Paola Frattaroli (eds.). 1993. Tessuti nel Veneto: Venezia e la Terraferma. Verona: Mondadori.
This volume includes a series of essays on textile production – wool, silk and other fabrics – in Venice and the wider Veneto region. The essays range across the Middle Ages and the early modern period, and there is a substantial catalogue of textiles from the twelfth to the twentieth century, with colour photographs, mostly liturgical vestments from churches across Veneto.

Evans, N. 1985. The East Anglian Linen Industry: Rural Industry and Local Economy, 1500-1850. Aldershot, Gower.

Fanti, C. 1987. ‘Le botteghe dell’abbigliamento’. In Arti e mestieri a Parma dal Medioevo al XX secolo. Parma: Grafiche Step.

Fawcett, T. 1985. ‘Argonauts and commercial travellers: the foreign marketing of Norwich stuffs in the later eighteenth century’, Textile History, 16(2), 151-182.

Fawcett, T. 1990. ‘Eighteenth-century shops and the luxury trade’, Bath History, 3, 49-75.

Fawcett, T. 1990. ‘Retailing Norwich textiles at Bath, 1750-1800’, Norfolk Archaeology, 41(1), 67-70.

Fawcett, T. 1992. ‘Bath’s Georgian warehouses’, Costume, 26, 32-39.

Dicusses the retail trade in Bath in the eighteenth century (including the clothing and fabric trade) with emphasis on the impact of ‘warehouses’.

Federico, G. 1988. ‘Per una storia dell’industria serica italiana’. In Annali di storia dell’impresa, 4, pp. 112-130.

Fennell Mazzaoui, Maureen. 1981. The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middle Ages, 1100-1600. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Fogagnoli, L. 1978. ‘Consistenza e localizzazione della lavorazione della seta nel Ducato di Milano durante il ‘700’. In Nuova rivista storica, 42, II-IV, pp. 289-308.

Fornasari, M. 1989. ‘I Ghelli: da Budrio a Bologna, da pellicciai a mercanti di seta’. In Il Carrobbio, 15, pp. 99-107.

Frangioni, Luciana, ed. 1990. I mercanti italiani dell’Europa medievale e rinascimentale. Florence: Le Monnier.

Frangioni, Luciana. 1979. ‘Il mercato dei pellami e delle pellicce di Milano’. In M. Belloni Zecchinelli, ed. Artigianato lombardo, III. L’opera tessile. Milan: Cassa di Risparmio delle Provincie Lombarde.

Frangioni, Luciana. 1983. ‘Aspetti della produzione delle armi milanesi nel XV secolo’. In Milano nell’età di Ludovico il Moro: atti del convegno internazionale, vol. I. Milan: Comune di Milano, archivio storico civico e biblioteca trivulziana.

Franzina, Emilio, ed. 1989. Memorie toccanti l’estesissimo commercio dei drappi di seta stabilito in Vicenza. Vicenza.

Galasso, Giuseppe. 1963. ‘Seta e commercio del ferro nell’economia napoletana del tardo Cinquecento’. In Rivista storica italiana, 75, pp. 615-640.

Gasca Queirazza, G. 1986. ‘La produzione e filatura della seta in Piemonte tra Cinquecento e Settecento: note di lessico’. In Studi in memoria di Mario Abrate, vol. I, Turin, pp. 453-473.

Gasparini, D. and W. Panciera, eds. 2000. I lanifici di Follina. Economia, società e lavoro tra medioevo ed età contemporanea. Verona.

Gasparini, G.B., Ileana Chiappini di Sorio et al. 1986. Origine e sviluppo dei velluti a Venezia: il velluto allucciolato d’oro. Venice: Corbo Editori.

Gatti, Luciana and G. Casarino. 1991. ‘Imparare l’arte – apprendisti nell’industria serica genovese tra XV e XVI secolo’. In Seta a Genova 1491-1991. Genoa: Colombo, pp. 18-21.

Gatti, Luciana. 1980. ‘Maestrie garzoni nella società genovese fra XV e XVI secolo, II’. In Quaderni, n.4.Genoa: Consiglio nazionale delle ricerche – Istituto di studi sulla ricerca e documentazione scientifica.

Gennaro, R. De. 1987. Velluti operati nel XV secolo col motivo ‘dei camini’. Florence.

Gheza Fabbri, L. 1980. ‘Drappieri, strazzaruoli e zavagli: una compagnia bolognese tra il XVI e il XVIII secolo’. In Il Carrobbio, Bologna, pp. 163-180.

Ghiara, C. 1983. ‘Filatoi e filatori a Genova tra XV e XVII secolo’. In Quaderni storici, 52.
                                                                                                                                     
Ghiara, C. 1991. ‘La tintura nera genovese: “la migliore di quante se ne facesse nel mondo”’. In Seta a Genova 1491-1991. Genoa: Colombo, pp. 22-28.

Ghiara, C. 1976. L’arte tintoria a Genova dal XV al XVII secolo. Tecniche e organizzazione. Florence.

Gibellini, F. 1992. ‘L’arte modenese della seta e i capitali ebrei nella seconda metà del XVIII secolo’. In Atti e Memorie della Deputazione di Storia Patria per le Antiche Provincie Modenesi, 11, XIV, pp. 277-292.

Gili, M. 1951. Tecnologia della maglieria e della calzetteria. Milan.

Ginsburg, M. 1972. ‘The tailoring and dressmaking trades 1700-1850’, Costume, 6, 64-71.

Girelli, Angela Maria. 1969. Il setificio veronese nel ‘700. Considerazioni sull’industria serica in rapporto alla politica fiscale veneziana. Milan: A. Giuffrè.

Girelli, Angela Maria. 1997. ‘La vittoria del bozzolo: la seta a Verona tra Sette e Ottocento’. In G.L. Fontana, ed. Le vie dell’industrializzazione europea. Sistemi a confronto. Bologna: Il Mulino, pp. 683-719.

Giusberti, F. 1989. Impresa e avventura. L’industria del velo di seta a Bologna nel XVIII secolo. Milan: Angeli.

Goodman, J. 1983. ‘Tuscan Commercial Relations with Europe, 1550-1620: Florence and the European Textile Market’. In Firenze e la Toscana dei Medici nell’Europa del ‘500, I. Florence: Olschki.

Grendi, Edoardo. 1987. La Repubblica aristocratica dei Genovesi. Politica, carità e commercio fra Cinque e Seicento. Bologna: Il Mulino.
[should also go under ‘material culture

Grönwoldt, R. 1977. ‘Notes on Italian and Spanish textiles of the seventeenth century’. In Studies in textile history in memory of Harold B. Burnham. Toronto, pp.126-132.

Guareschi, Icilio, ed. 1907. ‘Storia della chimica, VI. Sui colori degli antichi, parte seconda. Dal secolo XV al secolo XIX. Il ‘Plichto’ di Giovanventura Rosetti (1540)’. In Supplemento annuale alla Enciclopedia di chimica scientifica e industriale, pp. 331-445. Turin.

Guenzi, Alberto. 1983. La tessitura femminile fra città e campagna (Bologna secoli XVII-XVIII). Bologna: Centro Stampa Baiesi.

Guenzi, Alberto. 1987. La “fabbrica” delle tele fra città e campagna. Gruppi professionali e governo dell’economia a Bologna nel secolo XVIII. Ancona.

Guenzi, Alberto. 1988. ‘La tessitura domestica a Como tra Sette e Ottocento’. In Archivio storico lombardo, 112, III, pp. 233-253.

Guenzi, Alberto. 1995. ‘Alle origini del distretto. L’industria serica bolognese fra XVI e XVIII secolo’. In Metronomie. Ricerche e studi sul sistema urbano bolognese, 2-3, pp. 183-193.

Guenzi Alberto and C. Poni. 1987. ‘Sinergia di due innovazioni. Chiaviche e mulini da seta a Bologna’. In Quaderni storici, 64, I, pp. 111-127.

Guidiciolo, Levantio. 1974. Avertimenti di Levantio Mantoano Guidiciolo; bellissimi, et molto utili, a chi si diletta di allevare, et nudrire quei cari animaletti che fanno la seta: quali volgarmente si nomano Cavaglieri, overo Bombici, ò Bigatti, ò anche Bacchi, come ti piace. Senza quali, malamente, e di rado potrai conseguire il desiato frutto. Novamente dati in luce. Ed. by L. Pescasio. Mantua: Editoriale Padus.

Guisberti, F. 1999. ‘La forza dell’usato. Strazzaroli e rigattieri a Bologna in età moderna’. In A. Guenzi, P. Massa and A. Moioli, ed. Corporazioni e gruppi professionali nell’Italia moderna. Milan: Angeli, pp. 437-443.

Hallas, C. 1990. ‘Cottage and mill: the textile industry in Wensleydale and Swaledale’, Textile History, 21(2), 203-221.

Considers the changing fortunes of the textile industry in the two most northerly of the Yorkshire dales, during the later eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Harrison, J. 2006. ‘Stay & gumps’, The Journal of the Family History Society of Cheshire, 36(3), 18-19.

Harte, N. B. 1989. ‘William Lee and the invention of the knitting frame’. In: J. T. Millington and S. Chapman. eds. Four Centuries of Machine Knitting: Commemorating William Lee’s Invention of the Stocking Frame in 1589, Leicester, 14-20.

Harte, N. B. 1991. ‘The economics of clothing in the late seventeenth century’, Textile History, 22(2), 227-296.

Takes as a starting point for discussion a notebook (the ‘Burns Journal’ or ‘G.K. No. 51’) of Gregory King (1648-1712). The article includes extracts from a range of King’s writings, and an appendix: Gregory King’s ‘Annual Consumption of Apparell, 1688’ taken from the ‘Burns Journal’.

Harte, N. B. ed. 1997. The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300-1800. New York, Pasold Research Fund, Oxford University Press.

Heal, A. 1988. Sign Boards of Old London Shops, Portman Books, Batsford.

Includes several hundred illustrations. Shows the types of signs used within the dress and textile trades, and is an extremely valuable guide to London shops from 1650 to 1800.

Hentschell, R. 2008. The Culture of Cloth in Early Modern England: Textual Constructions of a National Identity. Aldershot, Ashgate.

Through its exploration of the intersections between the culture of the wool broadcloth industry and the literature of the early modern period, this study contributes to the expanding field of material studies in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century England. The author argues that it is impossible to comprehend the development of emerging English nationalism during that time period, without considering the culture of the cloth industry. She shows that, reaching far beyond its status as a commodity of production and exchange, the industry was also a locus for organizing sentiments of national solidarity across social and economic divisions. Hentschell looks to textual productions - both imaginative and non-fiction works that often treat the cloth industry with mythic importance - to help explain how cloth came to be a catalyst for nationalism. Each chapter ties a particular mode, such as pastoral, prose romance, travel propaganda, satire, and drama, with a specific issue of the cloth industry, demonstrating the distinct work different literary genres contributed to what the author terms the ‘culture of cloth’.

Hills, R. L. 1989. ‘William Lee and his knitting machine’, Journal of the Textile Institute, 80(2), 169-184.

William Lee’s invention in 1589 of the stocking frame was remarkable, because it was an invention of a complete new machine. At the time, it stood on its own as a production machine with many small parts made to a high level of accuracy. This paper outlines the growth of hand-knitting in the 16th century and shows how Lee’s machine derived from peg knitting. Constructional details and the mode of operation are closely described. An account is given of the development and use of the frame-knitting machine in Britain and France. Finally, the invention is related to the state-of-the-art in other machinery of the time.

Hogarth, S. D. 1986. ‘Ecclesiastical vestments and vestment-makers in York 1300-1600’, The York Historian, VII, 2-11.

Hogarth, S. D. 1997. ‘Goldlace to girthwebs - the evolution of a trade in York’, Textile History, 28(2), 185-200.

Traces the history of the craft of passementerie in York, from the fifteenth to the nineteenth century.

Hogarth, S. D. and Webb, C. C. 1994. ‘The Account Book of the York Company of Silkweavers, 1611-1700’, Yorkshire Archaeological Journal, LXVI, 191-213.

Hogarth, S. D. and Webb, C. C. 1995. ‘The Account Book of the York Company of Silkweavers, 1611-1700’, Yorkshire Archaeological Journal, LXVII, 163-173.

Hoshino, Hidetoshi. 1985. ‘Il commercio fiorentino nell’Impero Ottomano: costi e profitti negli anni 1484-1488’. In Aspetti della vita economica medievale. Atti del convegno di studi nel X anniversario della morte di Federigo Melis. Florence, pp. 81-90.

Houston, J. F. 2006. Featherbedds and Flock Bedds. The Early History of the Worshipful Company of Upholders of the City of London. Sandy, Bedfordshire, Three Tents Press.

Hunt, D. and Timmins, G. 2000. The Textile Industry 1750-1850: a Guide to Lancashire Records. Preston, Unversity of Central Lancashire.

Hunting, P. 1989. A History of the Drapers’ Company. London, The Worshipful Company of Drapers.

Top

Iorio, T. 1988. Produzione e commercio della seta in Calabria nel secolo XVI. Naples: Arte tipografica.

Jackson, C. 1993. The Berkshire Woollen Industry 1500-1650. (Unpublished Ph.D. Thesis, University of Reading.)

Jackson, C. ed. 2004. Newbury Kendrick Workhouse Records, 1627-1641. Reading, Berkshire Record Society.

The account book of this town workhouse provides detailed records of a clothmaking enterprise.

Jackson, C. 2008. ‘Boom-time freaks or heroic industrial pioneers? Clothing entrepreneurs in sixteenth- and early seventeenth-century Berkshire’, Textile History, 39(2), 145-171.

The early emergence of the entrepreneur in the English cloth industry was commemorated by early modern writers such as Skelton, Leland, Deloney, Aubrey, Fuller and Defoe but remains neglected in recent studies exploring industrial expansion and innovation c. 1500-1700. In response to the gap in the current historiography, this article examines the emergence of entrepreneurship, the growth of organizational experimentation and the short-lived development of the proto-factory in the Berkshire towns of Reading and Newbury. It explores the entrepreneurship of industrial capitalists such as John Winchcombe (the illustrious ‘Jack of Newbury’), Thomas Dolman, Thomas Aldworth and William Kendrick and the nature of their achievement and motivation. It assesses the impact of market forces, locational advantages, product specialization and social attitudes in unleashing and shaping entrepreneurial investment from the expansion of cloth-making in the towns in the fifteenth century to de-industrialization in the seventeenth century.

Jacoby, D. 1997. ‘Silk Crosses the Mediterranean’. In G. Airaldi, ed. Le vie del Mediterraneo. Idee, uomini, oggetti (secoli XI-XVI). Genoa: ECIG, pp. 55-79.

Jenkins, G. 1988. ‘Felt hat-making in Ceredigion’, Folk Life, 26, 43-53.

Discusses the felt-hat-making business in Cardiganshire which flourished in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.

Johnson, A. H. 1922. The History of the Worshipful Company of Drapers. Oxford, Clarendon Press.

Kerlogue, F. 1997. ‘The early English textile trade in South-East Asia: the East India Company Factory and the textile trade in Jambi, Sumatra, 1615-1682’, Textile History, 28(2), 149-160.

Kerridge, E. 1972. ‘Wool growing and wool textiles in Medieval and Early Modern times’. In: J. G. Jenkins. ed. The Wool Textile Industry in Great Britain, London, Routledge & Kegan Paul.

Kerridge, E. 1985. Textile Manufactures in Early Modern England. Manchester, Manchester University Press.

Knight, P. 2004. ‘The Macclesfield silk button industry: the probate evidence’, Textile History, 35(2), 157-177.

Most histories of the silk industry in England begin with the arrival of French refugees to Spitalfields in London, yet silk was prepared for embroidery in Macclesfield by the Middle Ages and the silk button trade was well-established by the early modern period. Through the study of probate evidence, this article aims to redress the imbalance in the historiography of the silk industry in England away from the focus on the activities of the Huguenots in the early modern period, and away from the silk weaving in order to show that the silk button industry succeeded not through technical innovation, but through marketing a luxury item in sufficiently small packages to make it accessible to a wide portion of the population. The silk button industry can be viewed as having laid the foundations in east Cheshire for the transformation of the silk industry into weaving cloth in the mid-eighteenth century.

Lambert, M. 2004. ‘Drapers, tailors, salesmen and brokers: the retailing of woollen clothing in modern England, c.1660-1830’. In: G. L. Fontana and G. Gayot. eds. Wool Products and Markets, Padua.

Lambert, M. 2009. ‘‘Sent from Town’: commissioning clothing in Britain during the long eighteenth century’, Costume, 43, 66-84.

The long period from the Restoration to the accession of Queen Victoria saw a rise in ‘popular consumerism’ affecting may aspects of British society and commerce, nowhere more so than in the market for textiles and clothing. Consumers were offered an increasing range of finished goods, rather than merely materials, but many of these were available only in larger towns. To access goods, customers often relied on the long-established process of commissioning at a distance through the offices of family members, friends or business contacts, acting as agents. This formed a significant channel for elite and popular consumption.

Laudani, S. 1996. La Sicilia della seta. Economia, società e politica. Catanzaro: Meridiana Libri.

Lecce, Michele. 1955. Vicende dell’industria della lana e della seta a Verona dalle origini al XVI secolo. Verona: Ghidini e Fiorini.

Lecce, Michele. 1975. ‘Una bottega di mercerie a Verona agli inizi del Seicento’. In Ricerche di storia economica e medioevale di Michele Lecce (first published 1961). Verona, pp. 383-400.

Leitch, R. 1990. ‘‘Here Chapmen billies tak their stand’: a pilot study of Scottish chapmen, packmen and pedlars’, Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, 120, 173-188.

Lemire, B. 1984. ‘Developing consumerism and the ready-made clothing trade in Britain. 1750-1800’, Textile History, 15(1).

Lemire, B. 1984. ‘Popular fashion and the ready-made clothes trade, 1750-1800’, Textile History, 15.

Lemire, B. 1988. ‘Consumerism in pre-industrial and early industrial England: the trade in secondhand clothes’, Journal of British Studies, 27, 1-24.

Lemire, B. 1990. ‘The theft of clothes and popular consumerism in Early Modern England’, Journal of Social History, 24(2), 256-276.

Lemire, B. 1991. Fashion’s Favourite: the Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain, 1660-1800. Oxford, Pasold Research Fund in association with Oxford University Press.

Lemire, B. 1991. ‘‘A good stock of cloathes’: the changing market for cotton clothing in Britain, 1750-1800’, Textile History, 22(2), 311-328.

Lemire, B. 1991. ‘Peddling fashion: salesmen, pawnbrokers, taylors, thieves and the second-hand clothes trade in England, c.1700-1800’, Textile History, 22(1), 67-82.

Lemire, B. 1995. ‘Redressing the history of the clothing trade in England: ready-made clothing, guilds, and women workers 1650-1800’, Dress, 21, 61-74.

Considers the rise of the ready-made clothing trade in England (the garments largely produced by women) and its clash with the tailoring guilds. Illustrated by items in the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto.

Lemire, B. 1997. Dress, Culture and Commerce: the English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800. Basingstoke, Macmillan.

This work examines a trade that covered the backs of sailors and soldiers, that shirted labouring men and skirted working women, that employed legions of needlewomen and supplied retailers with new consumer wares. Garments, once bought, returned again to the marketplace, circulating like a currency and bolstering demand. The agents in this trade included military contractors for clothing, female outworkers and dealers in used clothes. Each was affected by a changing demand for new-styled ‘luxuries’ and necessities in apparel.

Lemire, B. 1999. ‘‘In the hands of work women’: English markets, cheap clothing and female labour, 1650-1800’, Costume, 33, 23-35.

Lemire, B. 2003. ‘Domesticating the exotic: floral culture and East India calico trade with England, c.1600-1800’, Textile, 1(1), 63-85.

Discusses the calico trade and the events that converted such commodities from exotic to staple. Considers the demand for florals, and argues that these fabrics reshaped the material idioms of English life, framing new cultural and economic patterns.

Leonardi, A. 1987. ‘Un settore dimenticato del setificio roveretano: la tintura’. In Atti dell’Accademia Roveretana degli Agiati, 237, VI.

Levi, G. 1967. ‘La seta nell’economia piemontese nel Settecento. A proposito di un saggio inedito di Dalmazio Francesco Vasco’. In Rivista storica italiana, 79, III, pp. 808-818.

Lunghi, Daniela M. And Pessa, Loredana. 1996. Macramè: l’arte del pizzo a nodi nei paesi mediterranei. Genoa: Sagep Editrice.
This volume examines the origins of macramé, its techniques and centres of production, together with its characteristic designs and influences, from the earliest references in the fourteenth century to nineteenth-century manuals and current production. There is a particular focus on the production of macramé in the Italian region of Liguria, with an analysis of its role in the Genoese economy and its use in both dress and furnishings. The approach is both technical and historical and the volume includes an appendix of archival documents, containing guild regulations and inventories, as well as a number of close-up photographs of surviving pieces

Mainoni, P. 1985. ‘Origini medievali e rinascimentali dell’industria serica in Lombardia’. In L. Zoppè, ed. I segni del paesaggio lombardo, III. Milan, pp. 29-35.

Malanima, Paolo. 1982. La decadenza di un’economia cittadina. L’industria di Firenze nei secoli XVI-XVIII. Bologna: Il Mulino.
Deals with the Florentine textile industry.

Malanima, Paolo. ‘An Example of Industrial Reconversion: Tuscany in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries’. In Van der Wee, H. ed. The Rise and Decline of Urban Industries in Italy and the Low Countries. Louvain: Louvain University Press, pp. 63-74.

Malanima, Paolo. 1983. ‘L’industria fiorentina in declino fra Cinque e Seicento: linee per un’analisi comparata’. In Firenze e la Toscana dei Medici nell’Europa del Cinquecento. I. Strumenti e veicoli della cultura. Relazioni politiche ed economiche. Florence: Olschki, pp. 295-308.

Manikowski, Adam. 1983. Il commercio italiano di tessuti di seta in Polonia nella seconda metà del XVII secolo. Warsaw: Wydawnictwa Uniwersytetu Warszawskiego.

Mantese, G. 1977. L’arte della lana e della seta nella ripresa vicentina del secolo XVIII. Vicenza: Camera di Commercio.

Marletta, Fedele. 1926. ‘L’arte della seta a Catania nei secoli XVI-XVII’. In Archivio storico per la Sicilia orientale, 2, 2, pp. 46-91.

Martin, John. 1996. ‘The Imaginary Piazza: Tommaso Garzoni and the Late Italian Renaissance’. In Samuel K.Cohn Jr and Stephen A. Epstein, eds. Portraits of Medieval and Renaissance Living: Essays in Memory of David Herlihy. University of Michigan Press, pp. 439-454.
[should also go under ‘documentary sources’]

Masau Dan, Maria and Lucia Pillon, eds. 1993. Il filo lucente: la produzione della seta e il mercato della moda a Gorizia, 1725-1915. Gorizia: Edizioni della Laguna.

Massa, Paola. 1974. Un’impresa serica genovese della prima metà del Cinquecento. Milan: Giuffrè Editore.

Massa, Paola. 1981. La ‘fabbrica’ dei velluti genovesi da Genova a Zoagli. Zoagli: Libri Schweiwiller.

Massa, Paola. 1991. ‘I coloranti del nuovo mondo e l’industria tessile europea: tra economia e tecnica’. In Lilia Capocaccia Orsini, Giorgio Doria and Giuliano Doria, eds. 1492-1992. Animali e piante dalle Americhe all’Europa. Genoa: Sagep, pp. 233-249.

Massa, P. 1986. ‘Conseguenze socioeconomiche dei mutamenti di struttura nella tessitura serica ligure (secoli XVI-XIX)’. In Studi in onore di Mario Abrate, vol. II, Turin, pp. 601-620.

Massa, P. ‘Social and Economic Consequences of Structural Changes in the Ligurian Silk-Weaving Industry from the Sixteenth to the Nineteenth Century’. In J. Van der Wee, ed. The Rise and Decline of Urban Industries in Italy and in the Low Countries (Late Middle Ages-Early Modern Times). Louvain: Louvain University Press, pp. 17-40.

Massa, P. 1993. ‘Technological Typologies and Economic Organization of Silk Workers in Italy, from the XIVth to the XVIIIth Centuries’. In The Journal of European Economic History, 22, 3, pp. 543-564.

Matchette, Ann. 2005. Unbound Possessions: The Circulation of Used Goods in Florence, c.1450-1600. Unpublished PhD thesis, University of Sussex.

Mitchell, D. 1995. ‘‘Good hot pressing is the life of all cloth’: dyeing, clothfinishing, and related textile trades in London, 1650-1700’. In: H. Diederiks and M. Balkestein. eds. Occupational Titles and their Classification, St Katharinen, Max-Planck-Institute für Geschichte, 153-175.

Maxwell, S. 1972. ‘Two eighteenth century tailors’, Hawick Archaological Society Transactions, 3-29.

Mazzei, Rita and Tommaso Fanfani, eds. 1990. Lucca e l’Europa degli affari: secoli XV-XVII. Lucca: Maria Pacini Fazzi Editore.
This collection of essays focusses on textile merchants from Lucca and their involvement in trade both with other Italian cities and across Europe, including Poland, France and Germany.

McKendrick, N., Brewer, J., et al. eds. 1982. The Birth of a Consumer Society: The Commercialization of Eighteenth Century England. London, Europa.

Mitchell, D. 2003. ‘Levantine demand and the London textile trades’, CIETA Bulletin, 80, 49-59.

Miceli di Serradileo, A. 1975. ‘Agricultural Silk Production in Calabria in the XV and XVI Century’. In Rivista di Storia dell’Agricoltura, 4, 2, pp. 125-130.

Minucci del Rossi, P. 1890. ‘Invenzione di ferri da tessere drappi di seta e di velluto’. In Archivio storico italiano, 5, 6, pp. 310-311.

Mitchell, D. and Sonday, M. 2000. ‘Printed fustians, 1490-1600’, CIETA Bulletin, LXXVII.

Modigliani, Anna. 1998. Mercati, botteghe e spazi di commercio a Roma tra medioevo ed età moderna. Rome: Roma nel Rinascimento.

Moioli, A. 1981. La gelsibachicoltura nelle campagne lombarde dal Seicento alla prima metà dell’800. Trent: Università degli Studi di Trento.

Moioli, A. 1982. ‘Aspetti della produzione e del commercio della seta nello Stato di Milano durante la seconda metà del Settecento’. In A. De Maddalena, E. Rotelli and G. Barbarisi, eds. Economia, istituzioni, cultura in Lombardia nell’età di Maria Teresa, I. Bologna: Il Mulino, pp. 151-173.

Molà, Luca. 2000. The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press.
This comprehensive volume addresses a wide variety of issues concerning the trade and manufacture of silk in Venice, including cost-cutting and fraud in dying and weaving, patent law, regulation and competition.

Molà, Luca. 1997. ‘La via delle spezie e della seta: il commercio d’esportazione dalle Venezie tra XIV e XVI secolo’. In G. Barbieri, ed. L’Europa e le Venezie. Viaggi nel giardino del mondo. Padua, pp. 107-115.

Molà, Luca, Reinhold C. Mueller and Claudio Zanier, eds. 2000. La seta in Italia dal Medioevo al Seicento: dal bacco al drappo. Venice: Marsilio Editori.
This volume contains a series of essays from silkworms to the manufacture and trade of finished silks to technical innovations, female participation in the workforce, legislation, and to silk in literature and its meanings in the contemporary culture. Also included are a couple of inventories of sixteenth-century mercers’ shops.

Monnas, Lisa. 1993. ‘Le luxe industriel’. In P. Braunstein, ed. Venise 1500. La puissance, la novation et la concorde: le triomphe du mythe. Paris Autremont, pp. 157-167.

Montanari, D. 1981. ‘Produzione e lavorazione della seta bresciana nella politica protezionistica della Dominante’. In Società e cultura nella Brescia del Settecento, V. Brescia, pp. 171-175.

Morazzoni, Giuseppe. 1941. Le stoffe genovesi. Genoa: Ente provinciale per il turismo.

Morelli, Roberta. 1976. La seta fiorentina nel cinquecento. Milan: Giuffrè Editore.
This work focuses on the production and manufacture of silk in Florence and its surrounding territories. It discusses the expansion of the industry in the sixteenth century, Medici support, production costs, the import of raw silks from the south and the export of florentine products.

Morineau, M. 1983. ‘Le cifre, la bilancia e la seta: il commercio settecentesco tra Francia e Italia’. In Rivista storica italiana, 2, XCV, pp. 350-388.

Morsolin, B. 1984. Del setificio in Vicenza nei secoli XIV, XV, XVI, XVII. Notizie storiche. Vicenza.

Munro, J. H. 1983. ‘The medieval scarlet and the economics of sartorial splendour’. In: N. B. Harte and K. G. Ponting. eds. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe, London, Ashgate, 13-71.

Nichols, M. J. 1996. ‘Straw plaiting and the straw hat industry in Britain’, Costume, 30, 112-124.

Covers the period from the late seventeenth to late nineteenth century.

North, S. 2008. ‘The physical manifestation of an abstraction: a pair of 1750s waistcoat shapes’, Textile History, 39(1), 92-104.

A pair of tamboured French waistcoat shapes in the V&A’s collection bears Customs stamps from the reign of George II. Examination of both the garment and Customs records held by the National Archives reveals the illegal commerce in textiles in eighteenth-century Britain, and the reasons why such goods were taxed or banned. The political, social, administrative and fashion contexts of textile smuggling are discussed, as well as its numerous methods of execution, allowing speculation on the exact progress of the waistcoat shapes from embroiderer’s workshop to museum storeroom.

O’Brien, P. 1997. ‘The micro foundations of macro invention: the case of the Reverend Edmund Cartwright’, Textile History, 28(2), 201-233.

The article focuses on the eight year period, 1784-1792, during which the Reverend Cartwright designed and developed two machines of lasting siginificance for textile production: the power loom which operated in Doncaster and Manchester, and the woolcombing machine.

Oldland, J. 2003. London Clothmaking, c.1270-1550. (Unpublished Ph.D. Thesis, University of London.)

Oldland, J. 2006. ‘The wealth of the trades in Early Tudor London’, London Journal, XXXI(2), 127-155.

Oldland, J. 2007. ‘The finishing of English woollens’. In: R. Netherton and G. Crocker-Owen. eds. Medieval Clothing and Textiles III, Woodbridge, Boydell & Brewer.

Oldland, J. 2008. ‘The London Fullers and Shearmen, and their merger to become the Clothworkers’ Company’, Textile History, 39(2), 172-192.

There was a large and rapidly expanding cloth finishing industry in London in the late fifteenth and the first half of the sixteenth century. London merchants brought provincial cloth to the City, some of which was finished prior to export, and some was finished for the City’s expanding clothing industry. The success of the London Fullers and Shearmen was reflected in their merger to form the Clothworkers’ Company in 1528, and their acceptance ten years later as the last and twelfth merchant company in the City. The paper traces both the economic progress of the company and some of its principal members, and the difficulties that the Fullers and Shearmen faced as they decided to merge, and then to become accepted as one of the leading companies in the City.

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Origo, Iris. 1957. The Merchant of Prato: Francesco di Marco Datini. London: Jonathan Cape.

Pagano de Divitiis, Gigliola. 1990. Mercanti inglesi nell’Italia del Seicento: navi, traffici, egemonie. Venice: Marsilio.

Palmucci Quaglino, L. 1994. ‘Il filatoio Gioanetti-Ceriana di Cavallerleone. Ipotesi su un torcitoio settecentesco “alla piemontese”’. In Le culture della tecnica, 1, pp. 59-66.

Panariti, L. 1991. ‘Imprenditori, mercanti di seta e trafficanti ebrei nel Goriziano del Settecento’. In G. Todeschini and P.C. Ioly Zorattini, eds. Il mondo ebraico. Pordenone, pp. 355-368.

Panariti, L. 1996. La seta nel Settecento goriziano. Strategie pubbliche e iniziative private. Milan: Angeli.

Panciera, W. 1988. I lanifici dell’Alto Vicentino nel XVIII secolo. Vicenza.

Panciera, W. 1996. L’arte matrice. I lanifici della Repubblica di Venezia nei secoli XVII e XVIII. Treviso: Fondazione Benetton.

Panciera, W. 1984-85. ‘La transumanza tra l’Altopiano di Asiago e la pianura veneta: introduzione allo studio della produzione e del commercio delle lane nel corso del Settecento’. In Atti dell’Istituto veneto di scienze, lettere ed arti, n.143, pp. 314-358.

Panjek, G. 1982. ‘Problemi del dazio della seta a Cividale nel Seicento’. In G. Borelli, P. Lanaro and F. Vecchiato, eds. Il sistema fiscale Veneto. Verona, pp. 175-187.

Parenti, G. 1967. ‘Prezzi e salari a Firenze dal 1520 al 1620’. In Ruggiero Romano, ed. I prezzi in Europa dal XVIII secolo ad oggi. Turin, pp. 203-258.

Pasold, E. W. 1975. ‘In search of William Lee’, Textile History, 6, 7-17.

Indenture made between William Lee and George Brooke in 1600 about knitting frame invention.

Pastori Bassetto, I. 1983. ‘Sete e mercanti ad Ala nel XVII e XVIII secolo’. In C. Mozzarelli and G. Olmi, eds. Il Trentino nel Settecento tra Sacro Romano Impero e antichi stati italiani. Bologna: Il Mulino, pp. 901-919.

Pastori, Bassetto, I. 1986. Crescita e declino di un’area di frontiera. Sete e mercanti ad Ala nel XVII e XVIII secolo. Milan: Angeli.

Pavon, Massimo. 1972. Forme e tecniche nell’arte tessile. Treviso: Canova.

Peacock, D. 2006. ‘Dyeing Winchcombe kersies and other kersey cloth in sixteenth-century Newbury’, Textile History, 37, 187-202.

Dyeing wool for the thousands of kersey cloths produced annually at Newbury in Berkshire in the middle decades of the sixteenth century took place before export. Substantial statistical evidence reveals that dyeing took place on a proto-industrial scale in Newbury; Newbury clothiers John Winchcombe II and Thomas Dolman had their own dyehouses, and other Newbury clothiers were also producing dyed kersies. Woad, madder and weld were the most important dyes, and the scale of dyeing is indicated by the purchase of woad by the ton. This article uses the Newbury experience to challenge the common view that English cloth exports during the sixteenth century were exported undyed.

Pellegrini Rossi, R. 1995. ‘Una famiglia di imprenditori serici: la famiglia Scoti di Pescia. In Memorie e documenti, Istituto storico lucchese, Sezione di Valdinievole, Pescia, pp. 19-99.

Pelù, P. 1997. Aspetti della fabbrica di seta in Lucca (‘200-‘500). Lucca: Edizioni dell’Accademia Lucchese.

Picco, L. 1986. ‘Colori e sete sulla riva di un fiume. La regia tintoria di sete al borgo di Po a Torino nel Settecento’. In Studi in onore di Mario Abrate, vol. II, Turin, pp. 915-940.

Plummer, A. ed. 1934. The Witney Blanket Industry: the Records of the Witney Blanket Weavers. London, George Routledge and Sons.

Plummer, A. 1972. The London Weavers’ Company 1600-1970. London, Routledge & Kegan Paul.

Plummer, A. and Early, R. E. 1969. The Blanket Makers, 1669-1969: a History of Charles Early & Marriott (Witney) Ltd. London, Routledge & Kegan Paul.

Podreider, Fanny. 1928. Storia dei tessuti d’arte in Italia (secoli XII-XVIII). Bergamo: Istituto italiano d’arte grafiche.

Poni, C. 1976. ‘All’origine del sistema di fabbrica: tecnologia e organizzazione produttiva dei mulini da seta nell’Italia settentrionale (secc.XVII-XVIII)’. In Rivista storica italiana, LXXXVIII, III.

Poni, C. 1971. Archéologie de la fabrique: la diffusion des moulins a soie ‘alla bolognese’ dans les États Vénitiens du XVIème au XVIIIème siècle. Bologna.

Poni, C. 1982. ‘Piccole innovazioni e filatoi a mano: Venezia (1550-1600). In Studi in memoria di Luigi Dal Pane, Bologna: CLUEB, pp. 371-389.

Poni, C. 1978. ‘Per la storia dei mulini da seta: il ‘filatoio grande’ di Piacenza dal 1763 al 1768’. In H. Kellebenz, J. Schneider, eds. Beiträge zur Wirtschaftsgeschichte, Band 6. Wirtschaftskräfte und Wirtschaftswege III: Auf dem Weg zur industrialisierung. Nürnberg, pp. 83-118.

Poni, C. 1978. ‘Un opificio comunale: il filatoio della Ganga in Faenza’. In Studi in onore di Federigo Melis, IV. Naples: Giannini, pp. 155-186.

Poni, C. 1981. ‘Misura contro misura: come il filo di seta divenne sottile e rotondo’. In Quaderni storici, 47, pp. 385-421.

Poni, C. 1983. ‘Espansione e declino di una grande industria: le filature di seta a Bologna fra XVII e XVIII secolo’. In Problemi d’acque a Bologna in età moderna. Atti del II Colloquio dell’Istituto per la Storia di Bologna. Bologna, pp. 211-288.

Poni, C. 1983. ‘Innovazione tecnologica e rivoluzione dei prezzi: il caso della seta’. In Studi in onore di Gino Barbieri, III, Pisa: IPEM, pp. 1261-1268.

Poni, C. 1990. ‘Per la storia del distretto industriale serico di Bologna (secoli XVI-XIX)’. In Quaderni Storici, 73, pp. 93-168.

Poni, C.1995. ‘L’occhio esterno: l’indagine di un mercante inglese sui mulini da seta, i filati di seta e le pratiche mercantili nell’Italia settentrionale (1677-78)’. In Quaderni di storia della tecnologia, 4, pp. 9-51.

Preti, Domenico. 1971. ‘L’arte della lana in Toscana al tempo della Reggenza lorenese (1737-1765)’. In Studi storici, XII.

Priestley, U. 1985. ‘The fabric of stuffs: the Norwich textile industry, c.1650-1750’, Textile History, 16(2), 183-210.

Priestley, U. 1990. The Fabric of Stuffs: the Norwich Textile Industry from 1565. Norwich, Centre of East Anglian Studies, University of East Anglia.

Well illustrated, and includes colour plates from sample books.

Priestley, U. 1991. ‘The marketing of Norwich stuffs, c.1660-1730’, Textile History, 22(2), 193-209.

Includes an appendix, ‘Representative examples of weavers’ stock-in-trade, 1660-1730’, compiled from probate inventories.

Priestley, U. ed. 1992. The Letters of Philip Stannard, Norwich Textile Manufacturer (1751-1763). Norwich, Norfolk Record Society.

Priestley, U. 1993. ‘Norwich and the mourning trade’, Costume, 27, 47-56.

Discusses the branch of Norwich industry concerned with the manufacture of fabrics for mourning wear in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, known as the ‘Black Branch’.

Ragosta Portioli, R. 1988. Stato, mercanti e tintori di seta nel Regno di Napoli (secoli XVI-XVIII). Naples.

Ramsey, G.D. 1973. ‘The Undoing of the Italian Mercantile Colony in Sixteenth Century London’. In Textile History and Economic History, ed. by N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting. Manchester: Manchester University Press.

Ramsay, G. D. 1982. The English Woollen Industry 1500-1750. London, Macmillan.

Randall, A. 1991. Before the Luddites: Custom, Community and Machinery in the English Woollen Industry 1776-1809. Cambridge, Cambridge University Press.

Rebora, Giovanni, ed. 1970. Un manuale di tintoria del Quattrocento. Milan: Giuffrè Editore.

Rinne, K.W. 2001-02. ‘The Landscape of Laundry in Late Cinquecento Rome’. In Decorative Arts, autumn-winter, n. 22, pp. 34-60.

Riva, C. and G. Morigi. 1984. ‘Per una storia della bachicoltura e del pavaglione in Cesena’. In Studi romagnoli, 34, pp. 337-356.

Rizzo, M. 1988. ‘Potere amministrativo e associazioni corporative a Milano nel Cinquecento: le corporazioni auroseriche milanesi nella “Visita General” di don Luis de Castilla (1584)’. In Archivio storico lombardo, 112, III, pp. 27-52.

Robecchi, F. 1987. ‘Insediamenti produttivi bresciani nel Settecento. Mulini da seta e preindustrializzazione’. In Le alternative del barocco – Architettura e condizione urbana a Brescia nella prima metà del Settecento. Brescia: Grafo, pp. 271-294.

Roberts, E. ed. 1998. A History of Linen in the North West, Centre for North West Regional Studies, University of Lancaster.

Includes essays on: technical processes of linen production in the Manchester area (particularly during the seventeenth century); manufacture of cheap, plain linens and sailcloths during the eighteenth century; several Kirkham manufacturers of sailcloth during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Rogers, K. H. 1986. Warp and Weft: the Somerset and Wiltshire Woollen Industry. Buckingham, Barracuda.

Rolova, Aleksandra. 1983. ‘La manifattura nell’industria tessile di Firenze del Cinquecento’. In Firenze e la Toscana dei Medici nell’Europa del Cinquecento. I. Strumenti e veicoli della cultura. Relazioni politiche ed economiche. Florence: Olschki, pp. 309-325.

Romani, Marzio Achille. 1975. Nella spirale di una crisi. Popolazione, mercato e prezzi a Parma tra Cinque e Seicento. Milan: Giuffrè Editore.

Romboldi, Odoardo. 1968. ‘L’arte della seta a Reggio Emilia nel secolo XVI’. In L’arte e l’industria della seta a Reggio Emilia, dal sec. XVI al sec. XIX. Atti e memorie del convegno di studio (Reggio Emilia, 15-16 ottobre 1966). Modena, pp. 43-73.

Rose, C. 2000. ‘Manufacture and sale of ‘Marseilles’ quilting in eighteenth century London’, CIETA Bulletin, 76, 105-113.

Rose, M. B. ed. 1996. The Lancashire Cotton Industry: A History Since 1700, Lancashire County Books.

Rosetti, Giovanventura. 1548. Plichto de l’arte de tentori che insegna tenger panni telle banbasi et sede si per l’arthe magiore come per la comune. Venice.

Rosso, C. 1992. ‘Seta e dintorni: lombardi e genovesi a Torino fra Cinque e Seicento’. In Studi storici, 33, I, pp. 175-193.

Rota, Ettore. 1905. ‘Sopra un tentativo d’industria serica in Pavia nel secolo XVI’. In Bollettino della società  pavese di storia patria, 5, pp. 29-42.

Rothstein, N. 1964. ‘The calico campaign of 1719-21’, East London Papers, 7, 3-21.

Rothstein, N. 1989. ‘The silk industry in the late seventeenth century’, Textile History, 20(1), 33-48.

Ruddock, Alwyn A. 1951. Italian Merchants and Shipping in Southampton 1270-1600. Southampton: University College.

Ryder, M. L. 1995. ‘Fleece grading and wool sorting: the historical perspective’, Textile History, 26(1), 3-22.

Includes short sections on the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries.

Sanderson, E. 1996. Women and Work in Eighteenth-Century Edinburgh. Basingstoke, Macmillan.

‘Although the aim of this study was to assess the involvement of women in employment outside the home and the effect it had on their lives, it grew out of an interest in the history of clothes and an interest in early shop-keeping.’ Occupations discussed include: washing/mending; manufacture of grave clothes; clothing retail; making of bespoke garments; milliner; seamstress; button-maker; embroiderer; mantua-maker.

Sanderson, E. 1997. ‘Nearly new: the second-hand clothing trade in eighteenth-century Edinburgh’, Costume, 21, 38-48.

Sanderson, E. 2001. ‘‘The new dresses’: a look at how mantuamaking became established in Scotland’, Costume, 35, 2001.

The establishment of mantuamaking in Scotland is examined. The earliest reference found to this trade in Scotland dates to the end of the 17th century. Until that time, tailors took for granted that they had the sole monopoly of making and selling men’s and womens’ outer garments, and the Scottish craft incorporations sought to keep their hold on this monopoly. By the 18th century, however, these organizations were certainly beginning to lose their grip as women entered the clothing trade with mantuamaking. The way in which exactly Scottish mantuamakers learned to make their mantuas is not known, but it may well be that women traveled to London and brought back mantuas, which they unpicked at home. The trade spread all over the country despite conflict between mantuamakers and tailors, who sought to contest women’s right to make mantuas. However, the tailors eventually lost their case, and the craft monopoly officially ended with legislation in 1843. The writer goes on to discuss the working conditions of mantuamakers until the 19th century.

Santoro, Caterina. 1940. La matricola dei mercanti di lana sottile di Milano. Milan: Giuffrè Editore.

Satchell, J. E. and Wilson, O. 1988. Christopher Wilson of Kendal - An 18th Century Hosier and Banker, Frank Peters Publishing & Kendal Civic Society.

Saviano, A. 1968. Ricerca storica su di un’industria napoletana: la guanteria. Naples.

Scarfe, N. and Wilson, R. 1992. ‘Norwich’s textile industry in 1784, observed by Maximilien de Lazowski (edited and translated by Norman Scarfe)’, Textile History, 23(1), 113-120.

From the ‘Documents and Sources’ section of Textile History. Translation of an account written by Maximilien de Lazowski, a visitor touring around Norfolk in 1784.

Sella, D. 1959. ‘L’industria della lana in Venezia nei secoli sedicesimo e diciasettesimo’. In Storia dell’economia italiana, ed.by Carlo M. Cipolla, vol.I, pp. 533-556. Turin: Einaudi.

Sella, D. 1962. ‘Contributo alla storia delle fonti di energia: i filatoi idraulici nella Valle Padana durante il sec. XVII’. In Studi in onore di Amintore Fanfani, vol. V. Milan: Giuffrè Editore, pp. 621-631.

Sleigh-Johnson, N. 2003. ‘Aspects of the tailoring trade in the City of London in the late sixteenth and earlier seventeenth centuries’, Costume, 37, 24-32.

It appears clear that after about 1625, the evolution of London’s tailoring trade was subject to a complex process of change that would result in the transformation of its structure and organization in less than half a century. By 1625, the process by which a numerous but minority group of large employers and retailers came to dominate the tailoring trade was already apparent. The growing prominence of the clothing salesman from the second quarter of the 17th century is one of the obvious signs that incipient capitalism was starting to take hold in London’s tailoring trade. The impact of capitalists on the London tailoring trade between 1625 and 1675 was clearly profound, with the Merchant Taylors’ Company reporting in 1633 to the municipal government that the number of ‘able’ freemen had greatly diminished: This seem to be confirmed by the emergence in 1634 of a coherent body of journeyman tailors. The 1649-50 agitation of ‘divers poore men being Working Taylors’ strengthens the impression that many less wealthy freemen were starting to struggle to acquire or maintain the status of independent producer.

Sleigh-Johnson, N. 2007. ‘The Merchant Taylors’ Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailors’ Guild or Company of Merchants?’, Costume, 41, 45-52.

Probably the most neglected aspect of the history of the guilds and livery companies of early modern London is the ubiquitous subordinate organisation known as the ‘yeomanry’ or ‘bachelors’ company’. Many narrative histories of individual companies make only passing reference to the existence of a yeomanry, and dismiss the organisations as generally transient and insignificant. Per contra, the yeomanry of at least one of the major City livery companies represented to an extraordinary degree a company within a company in the later sixteenth century.

By the time Elizabeth ascended the throne, the yeomanry body of the Merchant Taylors’ Company had acquired effective responsibility for the vast majority of the Company’s membership. To most contemporary and modern observers, the dazzling wealth, magnificent ceremonies and eminent members — entitled to wear the prestigious livery gown of the Company, and generally drawn from the mercantile and civic élite — were the most intriguing aspects of the history of the Merchant Taylors’ Company. To the poor freemen below the livery these matters were of less significance.

Part I of this article examines briefly the origins, nature and functions of the sub-company. Part II explores the degree to which this body represented the continuation of the traditions of the medieval guild of London tailors and continued to embody the aspirations and interests of its artisan members.

Sinno, Andrea. 1954. Commercio e industrie nel Salernitano dal XIII ai primordi del XIX secolo. 2 vols. Salerno: Camera di commercio, industria e agricoltura.

Smith, D. J. 1983. ‘Army clothing contractors in the eighteenth century’, Textile History, 14, 153-164.

Smith, J. H. 1980. The Development of the English Felt and Silk Hat Trades 1500-1912. (Unpublished Ph.D. Thesis, University of Manchester.)

Sorge-English, L. 2005. ‘‘29 Doz and 11 Best Cutt Bone’: the trade in whalebone and stays in eighteenth-century London’, Textile History, 36, 20-45.

While it is commonly understood that whalebone played a prominent role in shaping fashionable stays and hoops of the eighteenth century, the connection between the fashion trades and whaling has been little discussed. This article addresses this lack, providing, in the first instance, an overview of procuring and processing whalebone in preparation for market. It then examines the dissemination of whalebone within the fashion trades, drawing upon the rich collection of primary papers detailing the business partnership ventures of a London haberdasher and a Lord Mayor. The final part of the article analyses stays with a view to determining the functionality and qualities of whalebone which made it an indispensable commodity in the creation of eighteenth-century stays. In doing so, it draws upon the previously unknown diary of a regional staymaker, and explores the roles played by women in determining the extent to which stays were worn, and thus the impact their consumption had on those who plied the whalebone trade.

Spallanzani, Marco, ed. 1974. La lana come materia prima: i fenomeni della sua produzione e circolazione nei secoli XIII-XVII: atti della prima settimana di studio (18-24 aprile 1969). Florence: Olschki.

Spallanzani, Marco, ed. 1976. Produzione, commercio e consumo dei panni di lana nei secoli XII-XVIII. Florence: Olschki.

Spallanzani, Marco. 1978. ‘Le compagnie Saliti a Norimberga nella prima metà del Cinquecento (un primo contributo dagli archivi fiorentini)’. In J. Schneider, ed. Wirtschaftskräfte und Wirtschaftswege – I: Mittelmeer und Kontinent, vol. IV of Beiträge zur Wirtschaftsgeschichte, Bamberg.

Spallanzani, Marco. 1991. ‘Tessuti di seta fiorentina per il mercato di Norimberga intorno al 1520’. In Francesca Grispo, ed. Studi in memoria di Giovanni Cassandro, II, Rome: Ministero per i beni culturali e ambientali, pp. 995-1016.

Staccini, Rita, ed. 1994. Le arti perugine della bambagia e della seta. Spoleto: Centro italiano di studi sull’alto medioevo.

Staniland, K. 1997. ‘Thomas Deane’s shop in the Royal Exchange ‘. In: A. S. Saunders. ed. The Royal Exchange, London, London Topographical Society, 59-67.

Includes an inventory of the haberdashery in the shop in 1571.

Starmore, A. 1989. ‘Unraveling the myths of Shetland lace’, Threads Magazine, 23, 41-47.

Sheep on the Shetland Islands produce a fine, soft wool, which is used to produce handknit lace. This cottage industry has been renowned since the 16th century, but has declined with mechanization. The art of Shetland lace has survived, however, due largely to the efforts of Edward Standen, a merchant from Oxford, and Margaret Currie, a native Shetlander of the 19th century. Techniques for producing Shetland lace are detailed.

Stobart, J. 1998. ‘Textile industries in north-west England in the early eighteenth century: a geographical approach’, Textile History, 29(1), 3-18.

Drawing on evidence derived from probate records, the writer discusses the relationship between urban and rural areas in the textile industry in northwest England in the early 18th century. The strong rural focus on production throughout this region--mainly in weaving and spinning--and the rural dominance of manufacturing in all sub-regions offers strong evidence for the sort of ‘bottom-up’ growth (drawing on traditional skills and a large and willing base of rural labor) that is suggested by proto-industrial theory. However, the important role played by the urban system in the finishing process and specifically the marketing and putting-out of textiles denies the subservient position attributed to it in this model. Although the picture that emerges is that of a network of towns that combined production from surrounding areas into an economic system based on the staple export of cloth, specialization according to cloth type cut across the proto-industrial interdependencies and undermined any uniformity in the relationship between town and country, with the particular role of each varying from place to place.

Strong, R. 1999. The Making of a West Riding Clothing Village: Pudsey to 1780. Wakefield, Wakefield Historical Publications.

Styles, J. 1993. ‘Manufacturing, consumption and design in eighteenth-century England’. In: J. Brewer and R. Porter. eds. Consumption and the World of Goods in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries, London, Routledge, 535-542.

Styles, J. 2000. ‘Product innovation in Early Modern London’, Past and Present, 168, 124-169.

Styles, J. 2002. ‘Involuntary consumers? Servants and their clothes in eighteenth-century England’, Textile History, 33(1), 9-21.

The writer discusses the issue of servants’ clothing in 18th-century England. In the opinion of the elite at this time, no group of workers was more guilty of sartorial extravagance than servants, primarily female household servants. Historians have generally endorsed these opinions, but some have argued that it does not necessarily follow that servants contributed directly to an expansion in the overall demand for clothes, as their access to expensive fashions was only made possible by hand-me-downs from their employers. The writer goes on to examine the evidence of the records of Robert Heaton, a Yorkshire worsted manufacturer and small landowner in the later 18th century. He asserts that, if Heaton’s servants were representative, most female servants bought not only cheap everyday clothes but also decorative and stylish items, without having to rely on hand-me-downs. He concludes that female servants at this time thus comprised a financially circumscribed but huge and free-spending market for new and fashionable clothing.

Sutton, A. F. 2005. The Mercery of London: Trade, Goods and People, 1130-1578. Aldershot, Ashgate.

Although mercers have long been recognised as one of the most influential trades in medieval London, this is the first book to offer a comprehensive and detailed analysis of the trade from the twelfth to the sixteenth century. The variety of mercery goods (linen, silk, worsted and small manufactured items including what is now called haberdashery) gave the mercers of London an edge over all competitors. The sources and production of all these commodities is traced throughout the period covered. It was as the major importers and distributors of linen in England that London mercers were able to take control of the Merchant Adventurers and the export of English cloth to the Low Countries. The development of the Adventurers’ Company and its domination by London mercers is described from its first privileges of 1296 to after the fall of Antwerp.

This book investigates the earliest itinerant mercers and the artisans who made and sold mercery goods (such as the silkwomen of London, so often mercers’ wives), and their origins in counties like Norfolk, the source of linen and worsted. These diverse traders were united by the neighbourhood of the London Mercery on Cheapside and by their need for the privileges of the freedom of London.

Extensive use of Netherlandish and French sources puts the London Mercery into the context of European Trade, and literary texts add a more personal image of the merchant and his preoccupation with his social status which rose from that of the despised pedlar to the advisor of princes.

After a slow start, the Mercers’ Company came to include some of the wealthiest and most powerful men of London and administer a wide range of charitable estates such as that of Richard Whittington. The story of how they survived the vicissitudes inflicted by the wars and religious changes of the sixteenth century concludes this wide-ranging study.

Taborelli, Giorgio, ed. 1986. Commercio in Lombardia. Milan: Silvana Editoriale.
Deals with industry and commerce in Lombardy.

Tescione, Giovanni. 1961. San Leucio e l’arte della seta nel Mezzogiorno d’Italia. Naples.

Thirsk, J. 1984. ‘The fantastical folly of fashion: the English stocking knitting industry, 1500-1700’. In: J. Thirsk. ed. The Rural Economy of England. Collected Essays, London, Hambledon Press.

Thornton, P. 1965. Baroque and Rococo Silks. London, Faber and Faber.

Includes information on the European silk industry.

Thunder, M. 2006. ‘Object lesson: designs and clients for embroidered dress, 1782-94’, Textile History, 37, 82-90.

Although it is well known that the literature on embroidery includes investigations into professional and amateur practice, the interaction between professional pattern drawers for embroidery, professional embroiderers and amateurs of this art remains to be fully examined. To this end, this object lesson examines a group of designs for embroidery in order to provide evidence of the technique for which they were employed; the dates and inscriptions on the designs demonstrate their use as a business archive, while the names of the clients reveal a social network. The final part of this article focuses on trade cards and suggests how the designs illuminate the negotiation between retailer and customer.

Tognetti, Sergio. 2002. Un’industria di lusso al servizio del grande commercio: il mercato dei drappi serici e della seta nella Firenze del Quattrocento. Florence: Olschki.

Tolaini, R. 1997. Filande, mercato e innovazione nell’industria serica italiana. Gli Scoti di Pescia (1750-1860). Florence: Olschki.

Trasselli, C. 1965. ‘Ricerche sulla seta siciliana (sec. XIV-XVII)’. In Economia e storia, 2, pp. 213-258.

Tremelloni, A. 1968. ‘Breve storia tecnologica delle macchine per maglieria’. In La maglieria, n.10.

Trezzi, L. 1988. ‘Un caso di deindustrializzazione della città: i molini da seta a Milano e nel Ducato (secoli XVII e XVIII)’. In Archivio storico lombardo, 112, 3, pp. 205-214.

Trezzi, L. 1988. ‘A Case Study of De-industrialization of the City: The Silk Mills of the City and Duchy of Milan from the Seventeenth to the Eighteenth Century’. In J. Van der Wee, ed. The Rise and Decline of Urban Industries in Italy and in the Low Countries (Late Middle Ages-Early Modern Times). Louvain: Louvain University Press, pp. 139-151.

Truffi, F. 1901. Materie prime per la concia. Turin.
On tanning.

Tucci, Ugo. 1981. Mercanti, navi, monete nel Cinquecento veneziano. Bologna: Il Mulino.

Tucci, Ugo. 1985. ‘Tra Venezia e mondo turco: i mercanti’. In Anna Della Valle, ed. Venezia e i Turchi. Scontri e confronti di due civiltà. Milan: Electa, pp.  38-55.

Venturelli, Paola. 1990. ‘Del ‘Grazioso Ornamento’: bindelli e bindellari milanesi (1720-1732)’. In Arte Tessile, n.1.

Venturelli, Paola. 2000. ‘La produzione tessile dall’età sforzesca al Settecento’. In Valerio Terraroli (ed.), Le arti decorative in Lombardia nell’età moderna: 1480-1780. Milan: Skira.

Venturelli, Paola. 1994. ‘Scipione Delfinone, Camillo Pusterla, Giovanni Pietro Gallarati: ricamatori nella Milano del ‘500’. In Studi e fonti di storia lombarda – quaderni milanesi, n. 37-38, pp.25-46.

Verga, Ettore. 1900. ‘Le leggi suntuarie e la decadenza dell’industria tessile in Milano, 1565-1750’, in Archivio storico lombardo, XXVII, pp. 49-116.

Verga, Ettore. 1914. La camera dei mercanti di Milano nei secoli passati. Milan.

Verga Bandirali, Maria. 1995. I tessitori di lino di Crema e territorio nei secoli XVI-XVIII. Cremona.

Wadsworth, A. P. and de Lacy Mann, J. 1999. The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, 1600-1780. Bristol, Overstone.

Originally published by Manchester University Press in 1931.

Waggett, R. W. 2000. A History of the Worshipful Company of Glovers of London. Chichester, Phillimore.

Walton Rogers, P. 1997. Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate. York, Council for British Archaeology for the York Archaeological Trust.

Discusses a group of associated finds from an excavation site in the centre of York. The focus is on the period between the ninth and fifteenth centuries, because of the nature of the artefacts. Includes a chronological survey of the find contexts of the artefacts, from the time of the Roman occupation to the seventeenth century; also, a consideration of the archaeological evidence in a wider historical context (e.g. identity of weavers and consumers, scale and significance of textile production). A select catalogue lists all objects illustrated or mentioned in the text.

Waquet, Jean-Claude. 1983. ‘Pour une histoire de l’industrie de la soie à Florence aux XVII et XVIII siècles’. In Ricerche storiche, 13, I, pp. 235-250.

Wickham, D. E. 2001. The Deluge of Time: an Illustrated History of the Clothworkers’ Company. London, Clothworkers’ Company.

Williams, N. J. 1952. ‘Two documents concerning the new draperies’, Economic History Review, IV, 353-355.

In the second half of the sixteenth century a range of mixed-fibre, lightweight, cheap textiles were developed and were known to contemporaries as ‘new draperies’.

Wilson, R. 1986. ‘Newspapers and industry: the export of wool controversy in the 1780s’. In: M. Harris and A. Lee. eds. The Press in English Society from the Seventeenth to Nineteenth Centuries, London & New Jersey, Fairleigh Dickinson University Press & Associated University Presses.

Wise, A. 2006. ‘Warner Textile Archive - a woven heritage’, Journal for Weavers, Spinners & Dyers, 217, 19.

The Warner Textile Archive has been housed at Warners Mill, Silks Way, Braintree, England, since February 2005. This nationally important archive is a unique record of the history of textile manufacture since the 18th century. It includes not only every example of woven and printed fabric produced by Warner and Sons but also examples produced by other companies. It features an extensive collection of original works commissioned from important artists and designers by Warner and Sons.

Woodward, D. M. 1967. ‘The Chester leather industry, 1558-1625’, Transactions of the Historic Society of Lancashire and Cheshire, 119, 75-76.

Wykes, D. 1992. ‘The origins and development of the Leicestershire hosiery trade’, Textile History, 23(1), 23-54.

Focuses on the period from the mid-sixteenth to the mid-eighteenth century. Appendix A lists documentary sources; Appendix B lists probate values of Leicestershire stocking-frames 1660-1711.

Yallop, H. J. 1992. The History of the Honiton Lace Industry. Exeter, University of Exeter Press.

This is a revised edition of the author’s 1987 Ph.D. thesis. The first section covers the rise and decline of the industry from the late sixteenth century to 1940; the second section considers the people involved in the industry (manufacturers, lace-makers, designers, and retailers). Illustrated with numerous monochrome plates.

Zacché, G. 1977. ‘L’introduzione del filatoio ‘alla bolognese’ nella città di Mantova (secoli XVI-XVII)’. In Mantova e i Gonzaga nella civiltà del Rinascimento: atti del convegno. Mantua: Città di Mantova.

Zalin, Giovanni. 1992. Dalla bottega alla fabbrica. La fenomenologia industriale nelle provincie venete tra ‘500 e ‘900. Verona: Libreria Universitaria Editrice.

Zanchi, G. 1993. L’industria italiana per la filatura dei cascami di seta dalle sue origini ad oggi. Bergamo.

Zanier, C. 1994. ‘Current Historical Research into the Silk Industry in Italy’. In Textile History, 25, I, pp. 61-78.

Zanier, C. 1994. Where the Roads Met. East and West in the Silk Production Processes (17th to 19th Centuries). Kyoto: Italian School of East Asian Studies.

Zanier, C. 1995. ‘La storia della seta in Italia nella ricerca e nel dibattito storiografico attuale’. In Nuova rivista storica, 79, II, pp. 347-380.

Zaninelli, Sergio. 1967. L’industria del cotone in Lombardia dalla fine del Settecento alla unificazione del paese. Turin: ILTE.

Zaninelli, Sergio, ed. 1988. Storia dell’industria lombarda, I. Un sistema manifatturiero aperto al mercato. Dal Settecento all’unità politica. Milan: Il Polifilo.

Zanoboni, M.. P 1996. Artigiani, imprenditori, mercanti: organizzazione del lavoro e conflitti sociali nella Milano sforzesca (1450-1476), Florence: La Nuova Italia.

 

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